From: hawgrider@my-dejanews.com Subject: Re: Using Car motor oil in a Harley???? Date: 1998/10/20 Message-ID: <70itsb$cr8$1@nnrp1.dejanews.com>#1/1 References: <70e9pl$a9i$1@nnrp1.dejanews.com> <19981019004008.27164.00001592@ng77.aol.com> <70foli$ci9$1@nnrp1.dejanews.com> <70fsr3$htu$1@news-01.meganews.com> <83LW1.3179$pb7.2957489@news.rdc1.tn.home.com> <70i0br$dca$1@nnrp1.dejanews.com> X-Http-Proxy: 1.0 x10.dejanews.com:80 (Squid/1.1.22) for client 142.104.54.75 Organization: Deja News - The Leader in Internet Discussion X-Article-Creation-Date: Tue Oct 20 21:04:10 1998 GMT Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.harley X-Http-User-Agent: Mozilla/4.07 [en] (WinNT; U) In article <70i0br$dca$1@nnrp1.dejanews.com>, putt_remove@yahoo.com wrote: > Actually the topic of which oil is best gets discussed about twice > every year in this newsgroup. The last go-around seemed to give > Mobil1 an edge for EVO motors where a miltiviscosity oil is used. > However, Mobil1 has been reformulated which is why it is now offered > in a motorcycle only grade. A majority seemed to prefer a single > weight oil for flat, knuckle, pan and shovelheads using the old > organic oil, but even those results were disputed by some who > prefer multi grade oils of both organic and synthetic makeup. > The only fact that has ever held up in all oil thread discussions > is that the oil and filter should be changed often to remove > contaminates from the motor and you should not run a heaver weight > oil in your bike than is absolutely needed. > > So, if you can find documented proof that one oil is superior > in a Harley than any other oil we would all like to know about > it because it would settle a multi-year discussion. > Putts comments are pretty well exactly what the chemical engineer I asked said. Here are the main points: 1 Additives: Although in say a transmission, additives are important because of the various seals, and such. But in an engine, its not a concern. Its metal on metal that is the concern. So, fuck Harley's price gouging tactic, the additives don't do anything (if they even exist). And besides, is any one here stupid enough to honestly tell the stealership that they used another brand of oil other than HD oil? If you are that concerned about your warranty, use their oil till its up. 2. Vicosity: Use the recommended viscosity, too low or too high can kill an engine. It would be worse to run straight 40 weight in an engine designed for 20-50 weight though than vice versa. So, like Putt said, miltiviscosity oil for evos (and fatheads?), and straight weight for the rest. 3. Synthetic vs Organic: Any advantage one oil would have over the other is gone after that first ride. It's the particulate matter that gets into the oil that causes engine wear, and the best oil in the world ain't gonna solve it. If the slight advantage that a higher priced oil is gonna give for that one ride is worth it to you, go for it. But, your money is far better spent to change it every 1500 miles with organic, than every 3000 with synthetic, for the same cost. Until now, I've been using Mobil 1, and changing it every 2500 miles, I'll still use Mobil 1, but change it every 1500 miles from now on. I've found that if you go right to the main oil distributor, you can get a major price discount buying oil by the case, and my engine *is* worth the little bit extra to me. So, to repeat again, CHANGE YER FUCKIN OIL LOTS! I just know I'm gonna get flamed for this, but I've got my flame retardant jock on, so fire away ;-) L8r -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==---------- http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own